a whole new (vogue) world
fashion's conclave
I gasped at my phone today. I can’t say this is an unusual occurrence– I’m a frequently expressive texter & feed scroller– but this gasp was a genuine, full-bodied gasp.
A long lineup of Instagram posts from all the fashion news accounts I follow, all proclaiming the fashion industry’s equivalent of “extra omnes” at the start of a conclave for a new pope.
“Anna Wintour stepping down as editor-in-chief of Vogue after 37 years.”
In fact, that’s exactly how I described the importance of this to my non-fashion following, Catholic mother. It’s like a new fashion pope. In all seriousness, it really does feel like a huge moment in time for fashion. We’re talking about a woman who has sat at the helm of one of, if not the most, defining publication of an industry for almost four decades– to the point that the general public understands her power and influence.
Regardless of your personal opinions about Wintour’s editorial style and decision-making, you can’t deny the grip she’s had on all of us. This is the woman who brought us the iconic 1988 high-low fashion cover that was her first ever; Madonna’s 1989 fresh-faced close up that only came to fruition because a man next to her on a flight said the pop star didn’t fit Vogue’s elegance; and who inspired the 2006 cult classic The Devil Wears Prada.
I’ve never known another editor-in-chief of Vogue– AW has held that title longer than I’ve been alive. Do you understand how crazy that is? Her two predecessors (and essentially the only other editors-in-chief of American Vogue with recognizable names and eras) Diana Vreeland and Grace Mirabella only spent 8 and 17 years at helm, respectively.
Despite the fact that Wintour will remain Global Editorial Director for Vogue, as well as Chief Content Officer for Condé Nast, and that the person filling her shoes as the new Head of Editorial Content will report directly to her– we are likely to see the beginning of a new age.
And what that new age will manifest as, is entirely dependent on who gets the callup to the big leagues. Did I start typing this just to speculate who that person will be? Maybe…
Selfishly, I hope Margaret Zhang is in the running. The former editor-in-chief of Vogue China has been among my very favorite visionaries in the editorial part of the industry– so many of my favorite mag covers in recent history were born under her direction. While it doesn’t seem overly likely it’ll be her because of her pivot to filmmaking post-Vogue departure, a girl can still dream right?
Another name I foresee being mentioned in the coming weeks of search is Law Roach. The stylist and self-defined image architect, perhaps best known for his work in collaboration with Zendaya, has all the makings of a powerhouse editor who could really reinvent the space Vogue occupies in the industry. The most recent and relevant example of this? His work directing and styling the editorial shoots featured in the Met Gala issues celebrating Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.
The more likely result, however, is an editor already at a major fashion publication, particularly those who have worked under AW’s direction for a number of years at American Vogue. Chloe Malle (Editor of Vogue.com) and Chloe Schama (Senior Features Editor) could emerge as contenders. Chioma Nnadi, the current Head of Editorial Content at British Vogue, might really follow in Wintour’s footsteps and also make the leap across the pond.
The only thing that’s left to do is wait, it seems. For white smoke, or perhaps more aptly, a reissue of Rihanna’s papal Heavenly Bodies Met Gala look. Fitting, right?
